Tuesday, January 23, 2007

The Zetter

OK, so first off, this is the worst photo in the world. I'm still using my camera phone and it's really useless in dim light. The photo is of a small sliver of foie gras parfait with quince and a scattering of pomegranate that we shared at the Zetter on Saturday night.

I don't know if it's just that my diet has got in the way of my eating over the past few weeks, but Saturday felt like the first really delicious restaurant dish I've had all year. The Zetter was a last minute choice, I was really looking for a gastropub near to the Barbican where we could get supper at six to make our show at 7.30 (an almost impossible combination it would appear) and all of my choices didn't start serving until 6.30. I'd had a really good meal at the Zetter when it first opened and this was the ideal chance to revisit and have a drink in the bar.

I'd wanted to have cocktails, but when I saw a Bonny Doon Malvasia by the glass, that was it for me. I was first introduced to their wines at Trio and have been a fan ever since. Given we were short on time we ordered the slice of foie from the bar menu to tide us over until the restaurant opened. Luckily we weren't starving because if I were being critical, and I'm not in the mood, this was small for the £5.50 price tag, although it was perfectly formed. We filled up on the perfect bread. This is the real indicator that you're in the good hands of Sam and Sam Clarke of Moro. More moist than the bread at Moro and with a softer bite, this is seriously good sourdough. I'd meant to ask more, but all I could ascertain was that they make it themselves. It came with delicious, peppery olive oil.

Next up we both ordered the rare yellow fin tuna with garlic broccoli and cauliflower. I'm not usually a huge tuna fan (unless it's sushi) but this was perfect. Thinly sliced, seared on the outside and ruby red inside, it came on an iron skillet with a puree of cauli and some perfectly al dente broccoli. A side order of roasted new potatoes completed the picture, along with another glass of Bonny Doon.

So, a very quick meal before a performance of "Child of Our Time" and "Spring Symphony" at the Barbican, and overall a most delicious evening.

The Zetter,
St John’s Square
86-88 Clerkenwell Road,
London EC1M 5RJ
(0)20 7324 4444

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